Japanese Latin Fusion in Salt Lake City: How Aker Restaurant Brought Nikkei Cuisine to Utah's Boston Building

There's a moment around 8 PM most Friday nights when Aker Restaurant transforms. The intimate lighting stays, the elegant minimalism remains, but suddenly there's a DJ spinning and the historic Boston Building space at 9 Exchange Place shifts from refined Japanese dining into something Salt Lake City has never quite seen before—a sophisticated 21+ fusion of upscale restaurant and nightlife destination where dry-aged bluefin tuna shares the evening with meticulously crafted cocktails and danceable energy.

Owner Brandon Hargett spent the COVID era differently than most restaurateurs. While his Ruby River Steakhouse and Hoppers locations weathered the storm, he was traveling—Brazil, Peru, Mexico, collecting flavors and ideas. One diner captured what he brought back perfectly in their review: "The dry-aged sushi is next level, and the flavor combos are super creative." That's the thing about Aker. It's not trying to be a traditional Japanese restaurant, and it sure as hell isn't trying to be a typical Latin American spot. It's something rare in Utah dining—authentic Nikkei cuisine, the century-old fusion of Japanese technique with Peruvian ingredients that's almost impossible to find anywhere between the coasts.

How Brandon Hargett Created Utah's First True Nikkei Restaurant

Brandon Hargett knows the restaurant business from every angle. He and his brother Jason built the Ruby River Steakhouse empire from the ground up—Jason literally started as a busboy 21 years ago before the brothers acquired the entire franchise. They added Hoppers Grill & Brewing to their portfolio, understanding both the operational rigor of steakhouses and the community feel of brewpubs. But Aker? Aker represents something different entirely.

The space itself—formerly Maxwell's pizza joint in the 1909 Boston Building—underwent a transformation that one reviewer called "eye-popping, easily one of the most beautiful restaurants in the state." Hargett didn't just renovate; he reimagined. Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the space with natural light during early dinner service. Elegant light-green chairs and intimate booths create pockets of romance. A sprawling contemporary bar faces those historic windows, while a dedicated sushi bar commands a back corner.

But the real genius move? Bringing in Chef Pae Randall and Chef de Cuisine Jhonny Lopez. Randall cut his teeth at Lake Effect, Cannella's, and Ichiban Sushi—he understands Salt Lake City's palate while respecting traditional Japanese technique. Lopez arrived from Urban Hill and Las Vegas's renowned Sushi Roku, carrying the kind of high-end fusion experience that downtown SLC desperately needed. Together, they're executing Hargett's vision of what he calls "modern Japanese izakaya with a Latin twist."

The Nikkei Experience: Where Robata Grill Meets Peruvian Fire

Walk into Aker before 8 PM and you're entering a Japanese restaurant with serious Latin American soul. The robata grill tradition—that ancient charcoal grilling method from Hokkaido fishing villages—anchors the kitchen. But Chef Lopez isn't grilling plain yakitori. He's wrapping Kurobuta pork belly with shiso leaves, creating what one reviewer described as "a nice minty herbaceousness to each bite." The beef yakitori skewers get brushed with soy sauce and "absolutely melt in your mouth."

Then there's the dry-aged sushi program, which might be Aker's most distinctive element. You know dry-aged beef—controlled temperature, reduced moisture, intensified flavor. Now apply that to fish. Hargett told reviewers they dry-age some fish for days, others for nearly a month. The result? As one food writer explained it: "Dry-aging fish eliminates excessive moisture and intensifies the natural flavors, lending a rich umami aspect and creating complex flavors and a rich, buttery mouthfeel."

The dry-aged toro at $34 for two pieces has become something of a signature. One diner noted the "all fish are very fresh and of high quality and prepared properly and expertly." The nigiri flight ($29) or premium nigiri flight ($39) lets the chef showcase whatever they're most excited about—yellowtail, amberjack, sablefish, all with that distinctive dry-aged richness.

But here's where the Nikkei magic happens. Take the Salmon Aburi—torched salmon brushed with uni butter, topped with cilantro-wasabi crema and Peruvian aji amarillo sauce. Or the Sunomono Kimchee, where Persian cucumbers get marinated with namasu vinegar and homemade kimchee glaze. These aren't fusion dishes in the tired "let's throw Asian and Latin flavors together" sense. They're historically grounded in Nikkei tradition, that beautiful accident of Japanese immigration to Peru in the late 1800s that created an entirely new cuisine.

The Maguro Crudo exemplifies this perfectly—seven slices of dry-aged bluefin tuna served sashimi-style with blueberry-habanero jam and house yuzu kosho. One reviewer called it "a remarkable and inventive way to serve top-notch, dry-aged bluefin." The premium rolls follow suit. The Katsumi 512 roll ($37) tops grilled shrimp and blistered shishito peppers with torched A5 wagyu and charred onion aioli. The Ahi Zen roll earned particular praise from one diner: "highly recommend the Ahi Zen roll."

The Wagyu Program and Aker's Premium Protein Philosophy

If you're coming to Aker for steak—and plenty do—you're in for what one Salt Lake Tribune writer called "truly something magical." The wagyu ribeye has developed a cult following. Served with Peruvian chaufa fried rice (Peru's version of Chinese fried rice) and truffle mashed potatoes, it arrives with two sauces: chimichurri and aji verde, that spicy Peruvian green sauce that Chef Lopez makes with Japanese Kewpie mayo.

One reviewer captured the experience perfectly: "It hit the perfect balance between fatty and meaty, and it was seasoned really well. And dipped in the two sauces, the meat hit entirely new levels of flavor that were a pleasure to experience." Another diner called their wagyu "melt-in-your-mouth perfect" and praised the "homemade chimichurri."

The A5 Miyazaki wagyu takes things even further. At market price for 5 ounces, it's served with a hot stone that lets you control the cooking yourself. One reviewer described his experience: "When I placed the first piece in my mouth, it just melted. Amazing. Like butter. Like candy, but full of deep, rich, rich flavor. It was, by far, the best steak I've ever had."

The Chilean sea bass has its own devoted following. One business dinner attendee reported: "I had the sea bass and my wife had the filet. Both were excellent!" Another praised it as "amazing," noting that "once service started it was great. Sushi was great but the sea bass was amazing."

The Tuna Fight Club: Salt Lake City's Most Exclusive Culinary Event

Once a month, on the first Tuesday, Aker hosts something extraordinary. The Tuna Fight Club is a high-energy, 10-course omakase experience where guests witness the live breakdown of a 250-pound bluefin tuna, followed by a chef-driven tasting menu that highlights each cut in bold, seasonal Nikkei-inspired preparations. From buttery toro to grilled kama, every course pushes flavor boundaries.

Tickets are extremely limited and sell out within minutes. Drink pairings rotate monthly—rare sake, small-batch mezcal, Japanese whisky, natural wines—all curated to match the rhythm of the meal. The rules are simple: You do talk about Tuna Fight Club if you can get in. No substitutions, no hesitations. Trust the chef. Show up hungry. Leave changed.

It's the kind of exclusive culinary experience that positions Aker not just as a restaurant but as a destination, drawing food lovers from across the Wasatch Front who understand that witnessing a master breakdown of a massive bluefin tuna is something you can't get anywhere else in Utah.

Downtown Salt Lake's 21+ Dining Revolution

The 21+ designation isn't just a liquor license classification at Aker—it's fundamental to the experience. This is sophisticated adult dining that transitions into nightlife. One reviewer noted: "We didn't know the restaurant became a 'bar' at around 8. We arrived at 6:45 and the noise level was great. Two hours later the DJ started playing."

The cocktail program deserves its own recognition. The Blossom & Bubbles—Prosecco and sake garnished with a flower blossom—has become an Instagram favorite. Guests rave about the "meticulously crafted drinks" and "delicious and original cocktails." Even the soy sauce gets special treatment: whiskey barrel-aged tamari that's naturally gluten-free with a faint whiskey hint.

But here's the brilliant part of Hargett's concept. Early diners (5-7 PM) get the full fine-dining experience with attentive service and intimate atmosphere. As one reviewer noted: "Service before 6:30 are prompt and attentive." Later crowds get the energy, the DJ, the transformation into downtown's most elegant nightlife destination. One visitor observed: "Aker has a very sexy date night/girls night vibe."

The outdoor patio adds another dimension—sprawling urban space where you might bump into Post Malone (who was spotted there recently) while indulging in that famous dry-aged toro.

Exchange Place and the Boston Building Legacy

The location matters. Exchange Place represents Salt Lake City's first skyscraper district, Utah's second major commercial district after Main Street. The Boston Building dates to 1909, and Aker occupies it with the kind of respect old architecture deserves while bringing thoroughly modern energy.

You're walking distance from the Delta Center for Jazz games and concerts. TRAX accessibility makes it easy for visitors. And you're in the heart of what locals call "Restaurant Row"—that concentration of 15+ bars and restaurants between 300 South and 400 South, between Main and State. Aker has positioned itself as the upscale anchor of this entertainment district, the place where serious food lovers start their evening before the neighborhood's energy takes over.

Planning Your Visit to Aker Restaurant & Lounge

Address: 9 Exchange Place, Salt Lake City, UT 84111 (in the historic Boston Building)

Hours:

• Monday-Thursday: 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM
• Friday-Saturday: 4:00 PM - 11:00 PM
• Sunday: 4:00 PM - 9:00 PM

What to Order:

• Dry-aged nigiri flight ($29) or premium flight ($39)—let the chef showcase their excitement
• Wagyu ribeye with chimichurri and aji verde
• Maguro Crudo with blueberry-habanero jam
• Kurobuta pork yakitori with shiso
• Chilean sea bass with miso-truffle glaze
• Any cocktail featuring their whiskey barrel-aged tamari

Insider Tips:

• Arrive before 6:30 PM for quieter fine-dining experience
• Stay past 8 PM for the nightlife transformation
• Book Tuna Fight Club tickets the moment they're released (first Tuesday of each month)
• Valet parking available; street parking can be challenging downtown
• Reservations strongly recommended via OpenTable
• Instagram: @akersaltlake

Price Point: Upscale—expect $50-100+ per person for full experience

Aker isn't just filling a gap in Salt Lake City's dining scene. It's creating something entirely new—the state's first authentic Nikkei restaurant, a 21+ concept that respects both fine dining and nightlife, a temple to dry-aged fish in landlocked Utah, and a showcase for how Japanese precision and Latin American fire can create something neither cuisine could achieve alone. Brandon Hargett brought back more than recipes from his COVID-era travels. He brought back a vision of what downtown Salt Lake City could become.